looking to buy a greeneye system :) few questions

[David.B]

Hello,

I have emailed sales and not received a response. Not sure what the normal turn around time is but it's been over 48 hours now. Thought I would try here to expedite things.

I have 200a two phase 120v for 240v service to my house and the need for 31 clamps over 28 breakers (three 240v breakers).

The problem I see is the 200a CT clamps won't fit in my fuse box when I looked at the specs from the page. The main wires coming in are too close together. I'd say .75" gap between them. What are my options (I included a picture)? The 100a CT clamps would fit...

Is there any hardwire kits to help alleviate all of the wallwarts? I think I counted I would need 3 if I get the dashbox server to go with it.

thanks! Looking forward to purchasing soon

[Teken]

Is it safe to state the two primary cables are aluminum wire?

[David.B]

Is it safe to state the two primary cables are aluminum wire?

Unknown, I'd assume so but I'm not sure. House was built in 89.


Do you really need two 200a clamps? I'm going to guess the majority of folks never come close to even exceeding 100a per phase.

[Teken]

Is it safe to state the two primary cables are aluminum wire?

Unknown, I'd assume so but I'm not sure. House was built in 89.


Do you really need two 200a clamps? I'm going to guess the majority of folks never come close to even exceeding 100a per phase.

Technically yes you do but if you know that amount of current will never be drawn. If you know the inner diameter of the 100 clamp on CT will fit.

Did you receive a reply from Brultech sales? if not let me know so I can push it up the ladder.

Give it a try . . .

[David.B]

Is it safe to state the two primary cables are aluminum wire?

Unknown, I'd assume so but I'm not sure. House was built in 89.


Do you really need two 200a clamps? I'm going to guess the majority of folks never come close to even exceeding 100a per phase.

Technically yes you do but if you know that amount of current will never be drawn. If you know the inner diameter of the 100 clamp on CT will fit.

Did you receive a reply from Brultech sales? if not let me know so I can push it up the ladder.

Give it a try . . .

Nope, no reply.

Yes, I believe the 100a clamps will fit according to the measurements.

Technically they will give the possibility of monitoring 200a of 120v and 100a of 240v although not simultaneously

Any chance there will be smaller 200a clamps that would work? Or any ideas on being able to fit the current ones? Outside of having the mains rewired

Ok if I just ask my question in here now? If so, I'll just order my stuff online.

My other question is if there is a way to get rid of some of the wall warts. I think I'll need 3 of them with the dash box. Is there any hardwire options?

[Teken]

Nope, no reply.

Yes, I believe the 100a clamps will fit according to the measurements.

Technically they will give the possibility of monitoring 200a of 120v and 100a of 240v although not simultaneously

Any chance there will be smaller 200a clamps that would work? Or any ideas on being able to fit the current ones? Outside of having the mains rewired

Ok if I just ask my question in here now? If so, I'll just order my stuff online.

My other question is if there is a way to get rid of some of the wall warts. I think I'll need 3 of them with the dash box. Is there any hardwire options?

I've sent in a follow up on your behalf so hang tight for Tammy to reply back.

RE: Mains -> I would see if those two primary wires have any slack from up above and see if you can spread them apart more. Keep in mind the two CT's would simply be over lapping one another if you got them in there.

Please ensure you observe proper polarity on the CT and worse case you can reverse the other end of the cable if you notice no current flow.

Let me know if you get sorted out by the sales team . . .

[Teken]

My other question is if there is a way to get rid of some of the wall warts. I think I'll need 3 of them with the dash box. Is there any hardwire options?

There are only two choice at the moment and that is to use the supplied transformers or power the hardware via the USB port I believe.

The full users manual will show the port and the requirements. If you do a quick search you will find several members went that route to power their GEM.

[ben]

Dave,

Sorry about that, most system assembly emails get sent to me and I've been out with the flu since Tuesday. Managed to make it in today however.

The Split-100s are linear up-to 120A, we haven't tested any higher then that. If you don't think you'll exceed 120A on either leg, you should be OK with the Split-100s. Unfortunately I can't think of an easy way to test this.

We don't suggest using 3rd party CTs in most situations as the CTs we use have been tested and calibrated to our system. In special cases; such as yours, if you can find a CT with a 333mV output that fits, email me over the specsheet and I'll see if Paul can make it compatible.

You can reduce the wall adapters in 3 ways.
1) Use our high-accuracy PT instead of the 12V for a voltage reference, it connects to a breaker instead of an outlet.
2) Use some sort of barrel plug splitter between the GEM and the DashBox (we haven't tested it yet but the Mini-USB on the GEM could be connected to the DashBox in theory instead of a splitter).
3) We've had a customer use a DIN Rail Power Supply (like this to power his devices before.

[David.B]

Dave,

Sorry about that, most system assembly emails get sent to me and I've been out with the flu since Tuesday. Managed to make it in today however.

The Split-100s are linear up-to 120A, we haven't tested any higher then that. If you don't think you'll exceed 120A on either leg, you should be OK with the Split-100s. Unfortunately I can't think of an easy way to test this.

We don't suggest using 3rd party CTs in most situations as the CTs we use have been tested and calibrated to our system. In special cases; such as yours, if you can find a CT with a 333mV output that fits, email me over the specsheet and I'll see if Paul can make it compatible.

You can reduce the wall adapters in 3 ways.
1) Use our high-accuracy PT, it connects to a breaker instead of an outlet.
2) Use some sort of barrel plug splitter between the GEM and the DashBox (we haven't tested it yet but the Mini-USB on the GEM could be connected to the DashBox in theory instead of a splitter).
3) We've had a customer use a DIN Rail Power Supply (like this https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-DR-15- ... wer+supply) to power his devices before.

thanks, it's NP. Appreciate you following up and the offers to help!

Interesting; ok this gives me some options.

I did have a "curb" unit installed for awhile but returned it for various reasons (highlighted in my amazon review anyone is interested). I'll attach a shot of my power usage. This unit had 100a clamps as well. Although of note; I wasn't using my A/C; so tack on whatever a 3.5 ton unit will add to the peaks.


Is there anywhere I can demo a dashbox?

I'll digest/research and bit and get back with ya

[ben]

thanks, it's NP. Appreciate you following up and the offers to help!

Interesting; ok this gives me some options.

I did have a "curb" unit installed for awhile but returned it for various reasons (highlighted in my amazon review anyone is interested). I'll attach a shot of my power usage. This unit had 100a clamps as well. Although of note; I wasn't using my A/C; so tack on whatever a 3.5 ton unit will add to the peaks.

Is there anywhere I can demo a dashbox?

I'll PM you over a link to one of our demo systems.

If the Curb didn't experience any issues, I don't think our Split-100s will.