GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questions

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NetworkGuy
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:47 pm

GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questions

Post by NetworkGuy » Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:57 pm

Hi folks:

I have a home I'd like to install a BrulTech GreenEye Monitor (GEM). Here's my scenario followed by some questions I'm hoping I can get some answers about. I have 2 main panel breakers (200 amps each) flush mounted within stud bays sitting side by side. I also have a 100 amp sub-panel which is about 70+ feet away from the main panel (following the wire path). Ideally I'd like to monitor circuits from each of the 3 panels (though maybe not every circuit?). I would like to place a GEM in my garage near my 2 main breaker panels. At most, it might be about 15 or 20 feet of CAT5 extension wiring (give or take) to the GEM location from my main panels. However the length from the sub-panel would be 70 or 80+ feet given the path the wires may need to follow. Here are some questions I have around installation, setup and usage.

1) Regarding the donut CTs, what is the length of the CT wire leads?

My 2 main breaker panels are tall (at least 30") while the sub-panel is at least 18". I'm wondering if there would be enough length to splice CAT5 extension cables below the panel or if I could simply splice the CAT5 and CT leads within the panel itself? Outside the box within a separate 2-gang box is probably best, but I'm trying to understand how far away a junction box can be from the panel and still be within reach of those CT wire leads (to splice into a CAT5 wire).

2) How many wires are attached to each CT (e.g. how many wires does it take to monitor each circuit)?

If it's one pair per CT, then it seems I should be able to add up all the circuit positions, multiply by 2 and then add at least 1 extra CAT5 cables for redundancy. Does this sound correct?

3) Is there a CAT5 cable length limitation from the GEM to the panel(s) being monitored (e.g. maximum cable length)?

4) What technology can be used to monitor your GEM device? Is it a wired [ethernet] connection, wireless or are there other options? I have both a wireless router and a Z-Wave network and wondered if connectivity to my Z-Wave network is possible for monitoring?

Thanks
Dave (NetworkGuy)
Teken
Posts: 2700
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:09 pm
Location: The Bad Lands

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by Teken » Tue Feb 07, 2017 2:23 pm

NetworkGuy wrote:Hi folks:

I have a home I'd like to install a BrulTech GreenEye Monitor (GEM). Here's my scenario followed by some questions I'm hoping I can get some answers about. I have 2 main panel breakers (200 amps each) flush mounted within stud bays sitting side by side. I also have a 100 amp sub-panel which is about 70+ feet away from the main panel (following the wire path). Ideally I'd like to monitor circuits from each of the 3 panels (though maybe not every circuit?). I would like to place a GEM in my garage near my 2 main breaker panels. At most, it might be about 15 or 20 feet of CAT5 extension wiring (give or take) to the GEM location from my main panels. However the length from the sub-panel would be 70 or 80+ feet given the path the wires may need to follow. Here are some questions I have around installation, setup and usage.

1) Regarding the donut CTs, what is the length of the CT wire leads?

My 2 main breaker panels are tall (at least 30") while the sub-panel is at least 18". I'm wondering if there would be enough length to splice CAT5 extension cables below the panel or if I could simply splice the CAT5 and CT leads within the panel itself? Outside the box within a separate 2-gang box is probably best, but I'm trying to understand how far away a junction box can be from the panel and still be within reach of those CT wire leads (to splice into a CAT5 wire).

2) How many wires are attached to each CT (e.g. how many wires does it take to monitor each circuit)?

If it's one pair per CT, then it seems I should be able to add up all the circuit positions, multiply by 2 and then add at least 1 extra CAT5 cables for redundancy. Does this sound correct?

3) Is there a CAT5 cable length limitation from the GEM to the panel(s) being monitored (e.g. maximum cable length)?

4) What technology can be used to monitor your GEM device? Is it a wired [ethernet] connection, wireless or are there other options? I have both a wireless router and a Z-Wave network and wondered if connectivity to my Z-Wave network is possible for monitoring?

Thanks
Dave (NetworkGuy)
Hello Dave,

1. Most of the smaller Micro Donut CT's are approx 6 feet in length the Split 200 is almost 10 feet.

2. Each CT is two conductor and how many CT's to be used on a circuit depends upon if its a balanced vs unbalanced 240 VAC breaker.

3. Brultech doesn't offer a maximum distance using any cable. But many have used Ethernet cable with great success to extend the CT reach. Keep in mind you should be using CAT-6 or better and not CAT5 / CAT5e cabling. If you intend to use Ethernet cable ensure its 23 AWG and pure copper and not CCA cable. Copper Clad Aluminum wire is not allowed to be used in walls per NEC / CEC.

CCA Ethernet cable also doesn't meet stringent network specifications . . .

You can also use 22-4 alarm wire as its even thicker (22 AWG) and offers less voltage drop for longer runs.

4. The GEM supports RS-232 Serial, Ethernet, WiFi, ZigBee. Z-Wave is not supported as method to send / receive data from the GEM / DB. I use the Dash Box (DB) to store, aggregate, and recall all the data that streams from the GEM.

If you have a *Always On* PC you can always use one of several free third party software packages to store the data. But this *Roll your own* method relies upon you in terms of setup, support, and long term maintenance. There are several supported OS's for Windows, Linux, etc which support RPI too.
Teken . . .

My ongoing projects thread: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewt ... ?f=2&t=929
Buy me a cup of coffee: https://www.paypal.me/Teken https://gfinotify.com/ Discount Code: PC10
NetworkGuy
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:47 pm

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by NetworkGuy » Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:40 pm

Teken wrote:
NetworkGuy wrote:Hi folks:

I have a home I'd like to install a BrulTech GreenEye Monitor (GEM). Here's my scenario followed by some questions I'm hoping I can get some answers about. I have 2 main panel breakers (200 amps each) flush mounted within stud bays sitting side by side. I also have a 100 amp sub-panel which is about 70+ feet away from the main panel (following the wire path). Ideally I'd like to monitor circuits from each of the 3 panels (though maybe not every circuit?). I would like to place a GEM in my garage near my 2 main breaker panels. At most, it might be about 15 or 20 feet of CAT5 extension wiring (give or take) to the GEM location from my main panels. However the length from the sub-panel would be 70 or 80+ feet given the path the wires may need to follow. Here are some questions I have around installation, setup and usage.

1) Regarding the donut CTs, what is the length of the CT wire leads?

My 2 main breaker panels are tall (at least 30") while the sub-panel is at least 18". I'm wondering if there would be enough length to splice CAT5 extension cables below the panel or if I could simply splice the CAT5 and CT leads within the panel itself? Outside the box within a separate 2-gang box is probably best, but I'm trying to understand how far away a junction box can be from the panel and still be within reach of those CT wire leads (to splice into a CAT5 wire).

2) How many wires are attached to each CT (e.g. how many wires does it take to monitor each circuit)?

If it's one pair per CT, then it seems I should be able to add up all the circuit positions, multiply by 2 and then add at least 1 extra CAT5 cables for redundancy. Does this sound correct?

3) Is there a CAT5 cable length limitation from the GEM to the panel(s) being monitored (e.g. maximum cable length)?

4) What technology can be used to monitor your GEM device? Is it a wired [ethernet] connection, wireless or are there other options? I have both a wireless router and a Z-Wave network and wondered if connectivity to my Z-Wave network is possible for monitoring?

Thanks
Dave (NetworkGuy)
Hello Dave,

1. Most of the smaller Micro Donut CT's are approx 6 feet in length the Split 200 is almost 10 feet.

2. Each CT is two conductor and how many CT's to be used on a circuit depends upon if its a balanced vs unbalanced 240 VAC breaker.

3. Brultech doesn't offer a maximum distance using any cable. But many have used Ethernet cable with great success to extend the CT reach. Keep in mind you should be using CAT-6 or better and not CAT5 / CAT5e cabling. If you intend to use Ethernet cable ensure its 23 AWG and pure copper and not CCA cable. Copper Clad Aluminum wire is not allowed to be used in walls per NEC / CEC.

CCA Ethernet cable also doesn't meet stringent network specifications . . .

You can also use 22-4 alarm wire as its even thicker (22 AWG) and offers less voltage drop for longer runs.

4. The GEM supports RS-232 Serial, Ethernet, WiFi, ZigBee. Z-Wave is not supported as method to send / receive data from the GEM / DB. I use the Dash Box (DB) to store, aggregate, and recall all the data that streams from the GEM.

If you have a *Always On* PC you can always use one of several free third party software packages to store the data. But this *Roll your own* method relies upon you in terms of setup, support, and long term maintenance. There are several supported OS's for Windows, Linux, etc which support RPI too.
Hi Teken, thanks for the fast response!

Agreed about CCA cable - I never use it! Appreciate the comments about CAT5e versus CAT6. I have CAT5e, but will instead pick up 22/4 security cable and use that for CT extensions.

There is one additional question I had that I didn't think about in my original post. The BrulTech can monitor up to 32 circuits. However, when I aggregate the potential circuits within the the 3 panels, I can come up with a potential of at least double that.

I may not need to monitor all circuits, but if I wanted to expand beyond the 32 circuits, what's the best way to do that? Would I simply add a second Brultech or is there some kind of expansion if needed?

Thank you!
NetworkGuy (Dave)

P.S. I noticed your thread in your signature and will definitely explore your thread on home automation
Teken
Posts: 2700
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:09 pm
Location: The Bad Lands

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by Teken » Tue Feb 07, 2017 7:00 pm

If finances are tight you could group common like circuits together into one channel. Anything over two CT's would need to use some kind of wiring bundle method. That could be as simple as using wire nuts to terminal blocks etc. If finances are not restricted I would humbly suggest you purchase two GEM's which would offer you the dedicated channels to do it right the first go round. Going this route would also enable you to have 16 (1-Wire) temperature sensors and 8 pulse channels too!

Lastly, just a point of clarification CAT6 cable comes in 23,24,26 AWG diameter so don't rely on the fact it says it's CAT6 / CAT6a etc. As the 26 AWG is used primarily for very short but thin server bridging or where a person has a need for FLAT cabling.


=========================

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.
Teken . . .

My ongoing projects thread: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewt ... ?f=2&t=929
Buy me a cup of coffee: https://www.paypal.me/Teken https://gfinotify.com/ Discount Code: PC10
NetworkGuy
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:47 pm

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by NetworkGuy » Tue Feb 07, 2017 11:41 pm

Teken wrote:If finances are tight you could group common like circuits together into one channel. Anything over two CT's would need to use some kind of wiring bundle method. That could be as simple as using wire nuts to terminal blocks etc. If finances are not restricted I would humbly suggest you purchase two GEM's which would offer you the dedicated channels to do it right the first go round. Going this route would also enable you to have 16 (1-Wire) temperature sensors and 8 pulse channels too!

Lastly, just a point of clarification CAT6 cable comes in 23,24,26 AWG diameter so don't rely on the fact it says it's CAT6 / CAT6a etc. As the 26 AWG is used primarily for very short but thin server bridging or where a person has a need for FLAT cabling.


=========================

The highest calling in life is to serve ones country faithfully - Teach others what can be. Do what is right and not what is popular.
Thank you for the fast responses! Your reply prompts a question I thought while reading your ongoing projects thread. In that thread, I'm at the point where you had purchased your remote temperature sensors (and junction blocks). I haven't seen yet where you'd gotten them installed. However you mention that some are earmarked for inside while others are for outside locations. My question is where did you put them and why in those locations? Our boiler includes one outdoor thermometer to help the boiler better modulate based on outside temperatures. With something like the one-wire temperature sensors, where do you get hte most bang for your buck with those and what use do they help provide you smart home?

I'm also interested about the pulse channels and how those are utilitize to make a smart home better. It sounds like you can get pulses from the gas line and/or water line. But I'm unclear how they get connected or communicate? What information does that give you?

I wasn't aware of the CAT cable wire thicknesses, but I think I'll stick with the 22/4 security cable so I can ensure the wire sizes are correct and most appropriate for CT communication back to the GEM since my one run will be significantly longer.

Thanks again for the pointers!
Teken
Posts: 2700
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:09 pm
Location: The Bad Lands

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by Teken » Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:28 am

NetworkGuy wrote:Thank you for the fast responses! Your reply prompts a question I thought while reading your ongoing projects thread. In that thread, I'm at the point where you had purchased your remote temperature sensors (and junction blocks). I haven't seen yet where you'd gotten them installed. However you mention that some are earmarked for inside while others are for outside locations. My question is where did you put them and why in those locations? Our boiler includes one outdoor thermometer to help the boiler better modulate based on outside temperatures. With something like the one-wire temperature sensors, where do you get hte most bang for your buck with those and what use do they help provide you smart home?

I'm also interested about the pulse channels and how those are utilitize to make a smart home better. It sounds like you can get pulses from the gas line and/or water line. But I'm unclear how they get connected or communicate? What information does that give you?

I wasn't aware of the CAT cable wire thicknesses, but I think I'll stick with the 22/4 security cable so I can ensure the wire sizes are correct and most appropriate for CT communication back to the GEM since my one run will be significantly longer.

Thanks again for the pointers!
Hello Dave,

- 1 Wire: The bulk of energy costs for most people come from heating, cooling, and hot water consumption. When a person connects the 1 wire temperature probes to the GEM and then records those values for historic recall a person can see how temperature plays a huge role in all of the above.

As you go through that super long *Project Install* thread you will quickly see how knowing the temperature environmental's will assist you in identifying strengths / weaknesses in the homes super structure, persona habits, to appliance settings.

I have more than 48 1 wire sensors embedded in various areas of the home, appliances, and outside. Some measure temperature for the attic, garage, bedrooms, kitchen, living room, basement, freezer, fridge, hot water tank, dryer vent, soil, water pipes, etc.

All of this information drives the home automation system to compensate and react to the users needs while maintaining a comfortable environment. As you go through the install thread you will quickly find out I am a fan of what the industry calls *Passive Hause* design and elements.

Essentially I use free and passive techniques to cool and heat my home. If and when active cooling and heating is required the 1 wire system offers that data point for example when to turn on interior ceiling fans, vents, exhausts, AC, etc. Closing shades, opening windows, etc all to keep the home cool and temperate.

On the opposite side when its the heating season based on the the 1 wire sensors the home automation system knows and reacts to leaving shades open to receive the free sun rays, while turning on ceiling fans to push and regulate the hot air trapped in the ceiling to offer longer and steady comfort.

As you read further you will find out the terminal blocks worked out perfectly. As the primary goal was to allow me to connect multiple sensors in a central point but still have the flexibility to remove just a (single) 1 wire sensor and not disturb the rest of the network.

Pulse Channels: I use the pulse channels to measure my water consumption off of the main water meter. Which again offers you more insight about how and when your family consume that precious water resource.

Many places like CA have very strict water conservation laws due to the ongoing drought. I don't have that kind of problem but still conserve when and where I can. So the 1 wire sensor and the pulse counter tells me how much I used to water the lawn, garden, flowers etc.

There is no guessing how much water I used for what ever chore. The 1 wire sensor tells me with 100% if the ground is still frozen solid and I know when and how much water the ground can take before run off occurs etc.

I also use the pulse channel to track two areas of interest to me via a dry contact magnetic sensor like you would see for alarm door sensors. Basically it tracks and counts how many times something has been open, closed, or cycled.

You can purchase a pulse water meter from Brultech also on their sales page. That would offer you a quick way to track how much water you consume and have that tracked by the GEM / DB combination.

Again, as you read further down the install thread you will find out I am a Alpha / Beta tester for the Water Hero company which is developing a smart water meter and water control system. As of this writing that Water Hero system is what allows me to obtain the water pulses from the main water meter which is relayed to the GEM and viewed in the DB.

My long term plans are to monitor the gas meter but here in Canada the utility isn't very accommodating in that respect so plan to connect a gas pulse meter when time permits.

In closing the GEM offers the three critical pieces of consumption which costs you money. When you first know what is consuming what and what are the big spenders. This information drives the next step of what to do?

Lastly, I have to say all of these questions you posed are *Important, Outstanding, Insightful* because one can not succeed or move forward with out first asking the basic questions of WHY?

Please do let me know if there are other questions I can help answer . . .
Teken . . .

My ongoing projects thread: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewt ... ?f=2&t=929
Buy me a cup of coffee: https://www.paypal.me/Teken https://gfinotify.com/ Discount Code: PC10
NetworkGuy
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:47 pm

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by NetworkGuy » Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:46 am

Teken wrote:
NetworkGuy wrote:Thank you for the fast responses! Your reply prompts a question I thought while reading your ongoing projects thread. In that thread, I'm at the point where you had purchased your remote temperature sensors (and junction blocks). I haven't seen yet where you'd gotten them installed. However you mention that some are earmarked for inside while others are for outside locations. My question is where did you put them and why in those locations? Our boiler includes one outdoor thermometer to help the boiler better modulate based on outside temperatures. With something like the one-wire temperature sensors, where do you get hte most bang for your buck with those and what use do they help provide you smart home?

I'm also interested about the pulse channels and how those are utilitize to make a smart home better. It sounds like you can get pulses from the gas line and/or water line. But I'm unclear how they get connected or communicate? What information does that give you?

I wasn't aware of the CAT cable wire thicknesses, but I think I'll stick with the 22/4 security cable so I can ensure the wire sizes are correct and most appropriate for CT communication back to the GEM since my one run will be significantly longer.

Thanks again for the pointers!
Hello Dave,

- 1 Wire: The bulk of energy costs for most people come from heating, cooling, and hot water consumption. When a person connects the 1 wire temperature probes to the GEM and then records those values for historic recall a person can see how temperature plays a huge role in all of the above.

As you go through that super long *Project Install* thread you will quickly see how knowing the temperature environmental's will assist you in identifying strengths / weaknesses in the homes super structure, persona habits, to appliance settings.

I have more than 48 1 wire sensors embedded in various areas of the home, appliances, and outside. Some measure temperature for the attic, garage, bedrooms, kitchen, living room, basement, freezer, fridge, hot water tank, dryer vent, soil, water pipes, etc.

All of this information drives the home automation system to compensate and react to the users needs while maintaining a comfortable environment. As you go through the install thread you will quickly find out I am a fan of what the industry calls *Passive Hause* design and elements.

Essentially I use free and passive techniques to cool and heat my home. If and when active cooling and heating is required the 1 wire system offers that data point for example when to turn on interior ceiling fans, vents, exhausts, AC, etc. Closing shades, opening windows, etc all to keep the home cool and temperate.

On the opposite side when its the heating season based on the the 1 wire sensors the home automation system knows and reacts to leaving shades open to receive the free sun rays, while turning on ceiling fans to push and regulate the hot air trapped in the ceiling to offer longer and steady comfort.

As you read further you will find out the terminal blocks worked out perfectly. As the primary goal was to allow me to connect multiple sensors in a central point but still have the flexibility to remove just a (single) 1 wire sensor and not disturb the rest of the network.

Pulse Channels: I use the pulse channels to measure my water consumption off of the main water meter. Which again offers you more insight about how and when your family consume that precious water resource.

Many places like CA have very strict water conservation laws due to the ongoing drought. I don't have that kind of problem but still conserve when and where I can. So the 1 wire sensor and the pulse counter tells me how much I used to water the lawn, garden, flowers etc.

There is no guessing how much water I used for what ever chore. The 1 wire sensor tells me with 100% if the ground is still frozen solid and I know when and how much water the ground can take before run off occurs etc.

I also use the pulse channel to track two areas of interest to me via a dry contact magnetic sensor like you would see for alarm door sensors. Basically it tracks and counts how many times something has been open, closed, or cycled.

You can purchase a pulse water meter from Brultech also on their sales page. That would offer you a quick way to track how much water you consume and have that tracked by the GEM / DB combination.

Again, as you read further down the install thread you will find out I am a Alpha / Beta tester for the Water Hero company which is developing a smart water meter and water control system. As of this writing that Water Hero system is what allows me to obtain the water pulses from the main water meter which is relayed to the GEM and viewed in the DB.

My long term plans are to monitor the gas meter but here in Canada the utility isn't very accommodating in that respect so plan to connect a gas pulse meter when time permits.

In closing the GEM offers the three critical pieces of consumption which costs you money. When you first know what is consuming what and what are the big spenders. This information drives the next step of what to do?

Lastly, I have to say all of these questions you posed are *Important, Outstanding, Insightful* because one can not succeed or move forward with out first asking the basic questions of WHY?

Please do let me know if there are other questions I can help answer . . .
That is a lot of great information! I can actually imagine how it would be good to get some basic wiring in a number of places for future use. I'm wondering how you were able to run wires (e.g. for the one wire temperature sensors) while living in the home? I can't image being able to route wires around without tearing up drywall or other actions.

Thanks!
Dave
Teken
Posts: 2700
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:09 pm
Location: The Bad Lands

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by Teken » Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:38 am

NetworkGuy wrote:That is a lot of great information! I can actually imagine how it would be good to get some basic wiring in a number of places for future use. I'm wondering how you were able to run wires (e.g. for the one wire temperature sensors) while living in the home? I can't image being able to route wires around without tearing up drywall or other actions.

Thanks!
Dave
Hello Dave,

I was very fortunate during my construction to have had access to the home. While areas, zones, floors, were still open I simply prewired many areas knowing this use case would be needed. I also installed a few key conduits to allow the very same for unknown needs.

Lastly, given my basement wasn't finished it made it quite easy to run cable to what ever area. I would say the bulk of the wiring was done this way for the third 1 wire network. :ugeek: Please take a few moments to read over the requirements and pros and cons of running different 1 wiring typologies.

Doing so from the onset will ensure long term reliability and success.

As an aside the one benefit of using Ethernet cable is having a common and easy RJ45 connector. For some that ease of use was worth the extra expanse for the other RJ45 connector that needed to be attached to the 1 wire cable. As I am sure you are fully aware with any new project sitting down and planning the deployment is key.

I would highly suggest you download all of the various manuals and give it a few one overs. This will offer critical insight and answer lots of installation questions that will arise. On the last page is a blank work sheet to identify CT's and breakers it would be a good time to put pen to paper as they say and determine which circuits will be placed in what order.

I went a little anal on my install because the reality is its only going to be done once. So with that mind set I invested the time to do it right the first go round. Meaning I sat down with that blank piece of paper thought long and hard to determine how loads would be represented in the DB for visual please and logical placement.

Doing all of these little things like labeling the ends of the wires with channel numbers just made trouble shooting and long term maintenance so much easier.
Teken . . .

My ongoing projects thread: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewt ... ?f=2&t=929
Buy me a cup of coffee: https://www.paypal.me/Teken https://gfinotify.com/ Discount Code: PC10
NetworkGuy
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:47 pm

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by NetworkGuy » Thu Feb 09, 2017 2:12 am

Teken wrote:
NetworkGuy wrote:That is a lot of great information! I can actually imagine how it would be good to get some basic wiring in a number of places for future use. I'm wondering how you were able to run wires (e.g. for the one wire temperature sensors) while living in the home? I can't image being able to route wires around without tearing up drywall or other actions.

Thanks!
Dave
Hello Dave,

I was very fortunate during my construction to have had access to the home. While areas, zones, floors, were still open I simply prewired many areas knowing this use case would be needed. I also installed a few key conduits to allow the very same for unknown needs.

Lastly, given my basement wasn't finished it made it quite easy to run cable to what ever area. I would say the bulk of the wiring was done this way for the third 1 wire network. :ugeek: Please take a few moments to read over the requirements and pros and cons of running different 1 wiring typologies.

Doing so from the onset will ensure long term reliability and success.

As an aside the one benefit of using Ethernet cable is having a common and easy RJ45 connector. For some that ease of use was worth the extra expanse for the other RJ45 connector that needed to be attached to the 1 wire cable. As I am sure you are fully aware with any new project sitting down and planning the deployment is key.

I would highly suggest you download all of the various manuals and give it a few one overs. This will offer critical insight and answer lots of installation questions that will arise. On the last page is a blank work sheet to identify CT's and breakers it would be a good time to put pen to paper as they say and determine which circuits will be placed in what order.

I went a little anal on my install because the reality is its only going to be done once. So with that mind set I invested the time to do it right the first go round. Meaning I sat down with that blank piece of paper thought long and hard to determine how loads would be represented in the DB for visual please and logical placement.

Doing all of these little things like labeling the ends of the wires with channel numbers just made trouble shooting and long term maintenance so much easier.
Very good suggestions. I won't be so lucky, because once our home is sealed up, there will be no access between the basement (it will be finished) and the upstairs (2 floors above). None of the walls line up from top to bottom, so even conduit won't be easy (if possible at all). None of that was suggested in the planning phase. :(

I am wondering about what your temperature sensors look like installed - are they somehow hidden (e.g. in a crack between sheetrock) or visible?

Installed in the ceiling of your rooms (e.g. bedrooms, living room, media room, etc.)? If so, did you place nearer the outside exterior wall or more central to the room?

I may run a 22/4 line to strategic locations in each room (I'm thinking one per room) so that temperatures can be monitored. Did you also install into your attic space? I was thinking maybe having 2 lines in the attic (or maybe one is enough?) in a north/south orientation since that is how our home is layed out.

Thanks for all the help/guidance so far.

Dave (aka NetworkGuy)
Teken
Posts: 2700
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:09 pm
Location: The Bad Lands

Re: GreenEye Monitor (GEM) PRE-Installation and Setup Questi

Post by Teken » Thu Feb 09, 2017 10:31 am

Hello Dave,

The 1 Wire sensors come in several forms, either as a raw chip or a finished product like you see here. I opted to use and install these types of solid stainless steel fully encapsulated units because it allowed easy insertion and extreme use.

This one has a rounded top which made it easier for specific areas I needed to embed the sensor probe.

Image

For placement I used common ports already existing in the home. Some of this took initial planning when I worked with the GC for the home build. As you can see I used the common CATV wall ports and simply integrated with them. Since they are low voltage there was no worries about safety, injected noise, or possible faults.

Image

Here is another one in the master bedroom - you will notice there are two sensors one comes from the GEM 1 the other to the Autelis Bridge. Most of the home and the surrounding perimeter uses 2~6 sensors for fine grain detail, zoning, and fail over.

Image

This is another CATV plate configured with the two probes. Unless someone points out the probes nobody ever notices them. If they do they have no clue what they are and simply look like some kind of metal nub. :lol:

Image

I took a lot of time labeling everything because I have serious CRAFT disease (Cant Remember A F^cken Thing) :lol:

Image

Image

I took lots of pictures as to what wire pairs I used for specific sensors. This high lights why using the RJ45 plug method eases the initial install. But going that route would waste the extra pairs of wires so for me that wasn't a big deal because running raw cable enabled me to to have multiple pairs spanning several areas with out duplicating another run of cable.

Image

Some parts of the install just worked out because I used common and existing ports already in the home. This one is for the central vacuum system in the home and because these ports already existed why not use these plate covers for dual use! :mrgreen:

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Other areas I just got creative in snaking the cable between the vents which allowed to measure extreme elevated areas like the different ceiling zones. This critical area ensures I know which areas have the most trapped heat. Which drives the home automation system to regulate the different fans, exhaust, and AC system.

This picture doesn't show the finished product but where you see in the center the plastic lock. Next to it is where the 1 wire sensor was drilled and inserted. That specific exhaust / return air duct was about 12-15 feet high so it really helped me know what the vaulted ceiling temps were.

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You can tell I am a huge fan of using existing things in the home. As I am really adverse in making holes in my beautiful home! :| At first blush it may be hard to tell what your looking for and that was the whole idea. Every sensor in my home just blends in and isn't an eye sore because that would kill me plus lower the WAF.

These two sensors measures the outside temperatures in the shade. Exatly what you want so true and accurate readings can be had. These sensors are again placed in low voltage areas away from high voltage junctions for human safety. These sensors are installed into the telco box and what might not be apparent there is a third sensor that runs down into the ground.

This is how I know the ground (soil) temperature and know if there is a frost line breach. Normally the frost line in most places is about 3-4 feet below grade. In my area it gets extremely cold and the frost line can go down to 12 feet. These sensor(s) which are staggered at 3-6-12 feet tell me if the frost has penetrated those boundaries.

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Close up of the same

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These are the flat tipped sensors getting ready to be inserted and placed in the ground, attic, eves, etc.

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This is a very old picture showing the initial install of the 1 wire for the hot water tank. Just this single install helped me save about 20% on my electrical bill. As I knew right away how hot the water was and dial back the TSTAT for the balance of human use vs safety and energy consumption.

I have another sensor in the actual tank so I know exactly how hot the water is which also offers me fail over and direct comparisons for home automation logic.

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All of the outside faucets are monitored as well given I live in the GWN. When the mercury drops below -45'C frozen pipes (cold temps) which seep into the interior of the home can happen. Because of this I installed these amazing sensors on the interior piping.

As you can see there is a shut off valve so from the exterior to that shut off is about 3-4 feet. Which is void of any water but the cold still can impact the piping. So what is not in the photo is a heat tape which is again controlled and automated by my home automation system.

Should the pipe drop below my defined threshold the system will automatically turn on the heat tape to warm up that section of pipe and thus avoid a burst pipe etc.

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This one is for the interior garage faucet which at the time I was just labeling and believe its called 13A. As you can see I used foil tape along with *Arctic Silver* compound for the best thermal transfer which ensures steady and consistent temperature readings.

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Some sensors are embedded in the attic perimeter for more active venting automation. In the summer the biggest killer to energy consumption is *Heat Soaking* due to thermal conductance of heat passing threw the insulation of the roof, attic, into the conditioned space.

The 1 wire sensors offers me this insight and the home automation system regulates and turns on / off exhaust fans in the attic to remove that hot air and promote circulation. Other aspects of the 1 wire sensors is to monitor for a fire condition due to lightning strike.

A smoldering fire can ensue after a direct lightning strike so I wanted to know if elevated temperatures were present that exceeded what I know is the norm. When you get to the end of the super long install thread you will find out how the system tells me verbally via Amazon Echo and Julie U.S. of any condition, state, the home is in.

Lastly, for specific zoned areas where the ambient temperature wasn't the main driver but was to monitor a enclosed area a screw on plug was used. The benefit of the screw on plug is it can be literally embedded into the drywall and once painted can't be seen.

This blends in to the drywall very well and allows any location to be monitored. The only downside is you're literally monitoring the sheet rock, cavity, etc. I only used these for *General Purpose* and not for critical monitoring of areas where I needed fast acting data.

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Also, what may not be apparent is all of the sensors that are in the wall plates are isolated by a thermo stable o ring. This was done to ensure the air temperature was the primary measurement opposed to the mounting point.
Teken . . .

My ongoing projects thread: http://www.brultech.com/community/viewt ... ?f=2&t=929
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