HVAC EFFICIENCY - TRUE BLUE FILTERS:
Over the years I have tried many of the very expensive name brand Filtercrete and similar furnace filters. Lots of them indicate they will remove 99.X% of XYZ from the air.
While others will indicate the best air flow with a combination of filtering. In 30 plus years I haven't been able to see, smell, breath, better air in my home simply by using these expensive furnace filters.
So, when I built my brand new home almost five years ago I decided to save myself some money and purchase and install cheaper filters.
Its not surprising to find out the following *True Blue* filters from Home Depot which cost me about $4.XX for a three pack.
Have performed just as good as the filters costing ten times more, and that is just for one freaking filter!
Below is one of the True Blue filters I purchased on January 18, 2015. My furnace takes a 16 X 25 X 1 filter size which is pretty common these days.
One of the great things I love with this whole Internet of things are companies actually using it as intended. This fine company indicates if I register my filter on line they will automatically e-mail me to change out the filter when its due!
If that isn't using technology as its intended I don't know what is.
Even though all of the family members will receive this filter change reminder. I always date the install so there is no guessing when it was done. Regardless, you should inspect the filter every month and visually see if there is any damage, or debris logged in the filter material.
This filter indicates it has a MERV rating of 2 which based on a quick glance indicates it has one of the best air flow on the market. But also means it has one of the worst possible filtering aspects a filter can have.
Below is a quick summary of what the MERV rating is and how it may impact your furnace, efficiency, and air quality:
What Is MERV?
MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. Or in English, “how effective is your air filter?” MERV ratings range from 1-16. The higher the MERV rating on a filter, the fewer dust particles and other contaminants can pass through it. The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) designed the MERV scale to represent a filter’s worst possible performance at removing particles .3 to 10 microns in size (that’s really small!).
Some of the common particles that filters are tested for include pollen, dust mites, textile and carpet fibers, mold spores, dust, pet dander, bacteria and tobacco smoke. Most residential systems can adequately remove airborne contaminants with a filter rated MERV 7-12. MERV 13-16 is typically found in hospital and general surgery settings.
What do MERV Ratings Mean?
Higher Is Not Better
You might think that a higher MERV rating would automatically be better, but it’s not. The higher the MERV rating, the smaller the pores are for air to flow through an HVAC filter. This can create more resistance in airflow than a system is designed to manage, thus making it inefficient.
Reducing the air flow in your system can actually worsen the air quality in your home and put a damaging amount of pressure on the fan of your furnace or AC system. So it is worth doing some research. Find out what the highest MERV rated filter is that still allows for maximum airflow in your system.
Change Filters Often
Filters with higher MERV ratings need to be changed more frequently (at least every three months) to avoid restricted airflow that can cause your system to work inefficiently or possibly even damage it.
We discovered that our MERV filters are a custom size, which makes them about three times more expensive than standard-size filters you can buy at big box stores. When you’re changing filters four times a year, that really adds up. So if you’re working with a builder to design a system, keep that in mind
For me given where I live in the GWN the air is extremely clean and pure. Having said this my mind set has been to simply inspect the filter once a month. If they are still clean I just leave them in there and if they are dirty depending upon how cheap I feel that month.
I either vacuum them out and place it back in.
If I am i doubt I just remove the old one and put a new one in its place.
I am unsure if I am just getting cheaper in my old age or simply stop buying into all the hype the filters need to be replaced once a month even if they look brand new??
ENERGY STAR - FURNACE:
More than five years ago I had a choice in selecting the furnace and the efficiency rating of that device. At that time our Province had already passed a law that all new homes had to have at the minimum a 92.1% efficiency furnace.
I believe that is probably one of few things this Government ever got right for the general public and the tax payers in this world. Setting minimum standards not only fosters consistency but also ensures everyone will have the same basic equipment and energy savings down the road.
Since this would be pretty much a one time purchase (in my mind) I had to decide to either spend approx $2500 - 4500.XX on a 96.X % furnace, or put it some where else.
I opted to place that extra money toward more insulation in the buildings interior / exterior structure. Doing so would provide long term comfort ensuring the heat remained stable in each room, zone, floor. All the while keeping the house quiet and fire proof.
As you see every interior wall is filled in every nook and cranny with Roxul fire rated insulation.
Even the headers in each room were filled in to ensure a complete fire break.
The entire basement is insulated with R20 insulation also along with a 8 mil thick vapor barrier.
In this picture at the top is where the foundation wall meets the sill plate. The entire perimeter (blocks) are filled with insulation. On the inside behind this 8 mil vapor barrier is more than 24" of insulation.
The entire building envelope is also protected by a Tyvek breathable medium opposed to the cheap tar paper most builders insist to use for builder quality materials.
Every home is given a nice rubber tar coating to protect the foundation wall which you see here.
I had decided it was worth paying extra money for MS Delta Wrap that protects the perimeter of the foundation walls should the wall ever crack or be compromised due to heaving. This material essentially acts like a giant rain coat for the building.
At the bottom is a massive pile of 3/8" clean rock that covers the weeping tiles which acts like a filter. This ensures the snow and rain water must go through 4 feet worth of filtered rocks which reduces sediments and clogging of the weeping tile system.
This along with a what the industry calls a *Sock* that covers the weeping tiles for the sump pump. This *Sock* is basically a fabrique cover that goes over the plastic pipe that surround the basement foundation. It ensures dirt, mud, rocks, do not clog up the lines thus causing a perimeter breach and flooding situation which you see below.
This same money was also invested into *Piles* which support the entire homes foundation and walk ways. This ensures even if the ground should shift the building will remain firmly planted in its spot.
In my mind it was best to invest money into something that could not be easily replaced or retro fitted. Thus the finances were directed toward structural elements that not only protect the home but also make it more energy efficient and comfortable.
One of the first things I did was to tape off and seal every HVAC pipe and return line. I have watched many home renovation shows where million dollar homes don't even address these simple yet important elements.
Any pipe or return will leak air.
Leaking air means that hot / cold air which is intended to heat or cool a space is not 100% getting from A to B. So I could have paid the builder to do this on my behalf and accept a bill of 2K for that privilege or do it myself.
Even the fresh air intake baffles are sealed off.
As can be seen here all of the HVAC ducts are sealed with high quality aluminum foil tape.
The first time I brought in a manometer into the house the HVAC CFM's were pretty reasonable. After completing this mini tape project I saw an instant increase of 30% in air flow!
The cost of $25.XX for a few rolls of tape increased the air flow, balanced the system in the home, and ultimately sends the hot / cold air faster and more efficiently in the home. It goes with out saying there are no more leaks in the HVAC pipes or returns and the sweat equity has paid off.
I am unsure how much money I would have saved each winter going with a 96.6% efficiency furnace vs a 92.1% unit. But, I do know the same money indicated above has directly impacted the over all comfort and energy levels in this fine home.
I really wish I could have gotten a blower seal test performed before and after. This would have at least told me how tight the envelop was. At this point I guess it really doesn't matter since every year I have done more to make the house more efficient and safe.
In the previous thread where I show the last 12 months of hydro bills. Its obvious my choice and selection of upgrades have paid off in keeping the house warmer during winter, and cooler during the summer. Comparing my home with others that have similar designed homes. I have seen electrical and heating bills 2-3 times more than what my family uses.
Some reasons I have determined after talking to my neighbors are the lack of insulation, sealing, and of course energy management. Most if not all of these people leave their homes at a steady 21+'C all day. Doing so 24 hours a day consumes a lot of NG along with electricity given our extreme cold weather.
As indicated before the largest part that will impact your energy bill outside of a tight envelope is your personal behavior and life style.
How bad could it be on this beautiful clear blue sky you ask?
I don't think people can really understand the difference between it being cold and it being freezing.
To give you perspective where I live is actually colder on average than the North Pole. Its colder than most any where on the freaking planet which many folks really don't understand why.
