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Ok guys I need help finishing my install. I am stumped what to do to complete my project and my panels have been sitting half complete for months!

First a bit about the install right now. I have two GEMS connected via WiFi to my network with a Dashbox. I only have one electrical outlet by my panel which must have the PLM for my ISY plugged into. The main electrical panel is on the right side and my sub panel is on the left. Under the main panel is just a door which acts as an access panel where the main internet and coax cable leads come into my home. I can't cut above the boxes to put in outlets as there are circuits coming from the attic down. So I am kind of at at a loss. I am not really interested in doing new drywall or repairs. Cutting into it for new outlets or boxes that's fine.

Heres a few pix.

This is behind the drywall.



This is after all installed.



Any suggestions how to add more outlets for the pulse and AC adapters for the GEMs in a clean/professional way would be appreciated. I did think maybe add an outlet below the main panel in the access area and put in a power strip. Then extend the power cables to reach down there and carefully route the wire through the main panel through the smurf tube to the access panel. There is just not a lot of room to work with there either. Maybe cut in another small box under the sub panel and put everything in there? I'm not sure, I'm at a loss.

Thanks in advance.

How many outlets do you need? Would a recessed outlet box (something like work for your application?

Looks like a cover can be added to hide the wiring and power supplies.

ben wrote:How many outlets do you need? Would a recessed outlet box (something like work for your application?

Looks like a cover can be added to hide the wiring and power supplies.

I need four outlets that will fit the large wall warts on the GEMs for power and pulse.

Well since there hasn't been many people to respond I guess I am alone finding a solution. Last week I had a custom cabinet guy some to do a quote for me. Teken made a suggestion a while back about ripping out the sheetrock and building it out then adding it back. So based on that idea I am thinking maybe add floor to ceiling cabinet doors to cover the whole area. I would gain a small cabinet that I could put ladders in and it would cover the electrical boxes enclosing everything nicely. I should have some CAD drawings soon so Ill post them when I have an solid idea.

So here are the CAD Drawings I have for custom cabinet doors over the electrical boxes. The company wants $2500 to do the job. I am sure it will look good but $2500 seems like a lot to cover panels. One good thing would be a nice cabinet for the ladders to go away neatly.

Teken made a suggestion a while back about removing the sheetrock, making the changes I need then putting new sheetrock back up. That maybe a cheaper solution. I am going to look into that next.

Heres what I was thinking.

If you decide redo the drywall I would humbly suggest you leave a large gap between the service panel and the *false* wall. This will negate the whole flush wall issues that plague so many renovations.

Flush mounting looks clean but from a technical stand point its the worst possible set up you can ever have in your home. As noted before if you plan on removing the dry wall please consider running all of the electrical outlets you may need now and into the future.

Planning for tomorrow will ensure future proofing forever . . .

NOTE: Insulate while the wall cavity is open

Teken wrote:If you decide redo the drywall I would humbly suggest you leave a large gap between the service panel and the *false* wall. This will negate the whole flush wall issues that plague so many renovations.

Flush mounting looks clean but from a technical stand point its the worst possible set up you can ever have in your home. As noted before if you plan on removing the dry wall please consider running all of the electrical outlets you may need now and into the future.

Planning for tomorrow will ensure future proofing forever . . .

NOTE: Insulate while the wall cavity is open

I don't understand the *false* wall. Can you elaborate in more detail?

IF I ripped the drywall off I would love to make both electrical panels even too, however the cost could skyrocket as the leads would need to be cut etc to clean up the panel. I probably would have to move the main panel thats on the right up more. Then the best thing would be to surface mount the items I need and pay for the cabinetry and be done. Everything behind would be hidden away.

Second issue is I now wish I didn't cut the leads to the energy donuts. Now if I want to relocate the GEMS I can't unless I buy all new monitoring donuts.

I don't think I would be able to add insulation as I would not be removing all the drywall just this small section.

scottmichaelj wrote:

Teken wrote:If you decide redo the drywall I would humbly suggest you leave a large gap between the service panel and the *false* wall. This will negate the whole flush wall issues that plague so many renovations.

Flush mounting looks clean but from a technical stand point its the worst possible set up you can ever have in your home. As noted before if you plan on removing the dry wall please consider running all of the electrical outlets you may need now and into the future.

Planning for tomorrow will ensure future proofing forever . . .

NOTE: Insulate while the wall cavity is open

I don't understand the *false* wall. Can you elaborate in more detail?

IF I ripped the drywall off I would love to make both electrical panels even too, however the cost could skyrocket as the leads would need to be cut etc to clean up the panel. I probably would have to move the main panel thats on the right up more. Then the best thing would be to surface mount the items I need and pay for the cabinetry and be done. Everything behind would be hidden away.

Second issue is I now wish I didn't cut the leads to the energy donuts. Now if I want to relocate the GEMS I can't unless I buy all new monitoring donuts.

I don't think I would be able to add insulation as I would not be removing all the drywall just this small section.

Well, technically the phrase false wall is a misnomer . . . Essentially what I envision is a wall that comes forward further out which obviously encroaches into the space. But that allows you to access wiring if and when needed. Keeping in mind this highly depends upon how you intend to cover the wall.

In my set up which is considerably smaller in shear size than yours I used a *Push & Slide* mechanism which makes the wall look completely solid to the naked eye and to others. But when I unlock the main panel (secret sauce here) the panel simply pushes in and slides behind the other panel(s).

This exposes the entire electrical panel, security, and other network related hardware. The ultimate goal for me was to clean up a entire wall of mismatched box's and wires that just drove me insane.

So if someone was to look at my wall it looks like a one long aszz wall.

I told you cutting those wires would come back and bite you in the aszz! You can moving forward use 22-4 / CAT6 wire to extend the CT's. Regarding the insulation I thought that entire wall was coming down so that is why I commented on that.

If not that's just fine - I figured while its open might as well kill two birds with one stone.

Teken wrote:

scottmichaelj wrote:

Teken wrote:If you decide redo the drywall I would humbly suggest you leave a large gap between the service panel and the *false* wall. This will negate the whole flush wall issues that plague so many renovations.

Flush mounting looks clean but from a technical stand point its the worst possible set up you can ever have in your home. As noted before if you plan on removing the dry wall please consider running all of the electrical outlets you may need now and into the future.

Planning for tomorrow will ensure future proofing forever . . .

NOTE: Insulate while the wall cavity is open

I don't understand the *false* wall. Can you elaborate in more detail?

IF I ripped the drywall off I would love to make both electrical panels even too, however the cost could skyrocket as the leads would need to be cut etc to clean up the panel. I probably would have to move the main panel thats on the right up more. Then the best thing would be to surface mount the items I need and pay for the cabinetry and be done. Everything behind would be hidden away.

Second issue is I now wish I didn't cut the leads to the energy donuts. Now if I want to relocate the GEMS I can't unless I buy all new monitoring donuts.

I don't think I would be able to add insulation as I would not be removing all the drywall just this small section.

Well, technically the phrase false wall is a misnomer . . . Essentially what I envision is a wall that comes forward further out which obviously encroaches into the space. But that allows you to access wiring if and when needed. Keeping in mind this highly depends upon how you intend to cover the wall.

In my set up which is considerably smaller in shear size than yours I used a *Push & Slide* mechanism which makes the wall look completely solid to the naked eye and to others. But when I unlock the main panel (secret sauce here) the panel simply pushes in and slides behind the other panel(s).

This exposes the entire electrical panel, security, and other network related hardware. The ultimate goal for me was to clean up a entire wall of mismatched box's and wires that just drove me insane.

So if someone was to look at my wall it looks like a one long aszz wall.

I told you cutting those wires would come back and bite you in the aszz! You can moving forward use 22-4 / CAT6 wire to extend the CT's. Regarding the insulation I thought that entire wall was coming down so that is why I commented on that.

If not that's just fine - I figured while its open might as well kill two birds with one stone.

You have any pictures of your example? It gives me another thought but I don't know "code" - could I remove the electrical box doors so it shows the circuit then rip off the drywall, install what I need to and instead of putting up drywall just put up a panel I can open and close. I don't know if they allow the cords to be "outside" of the drywall though.

Unfortunately my dear friend no photo's to share and this is probably the only thing I will never show anyone here or otherwise.

Not even in my projects thread . . .

To be honest there wouldn't be much to see besides what *Appears* to be a very long wall. There are however three *Push & Slide* walls which allows me to access the entire 12 foot area. You will definitely need to look up what your NEC codes indicate as proper. Most code indicate it has to be visible and not blocked by anything by XXX feet in front and from side to side.

Where as others don't care so long as the panel can be easily accessed so if that is hidden by a simple swing door vs my *Stealthy* push and slide technique more power to you! As I noted my entire assembly is secured using some magic sauce I stole the idea from other industries.

My method is fully accessible when needed but can never be accidentally opened when the home is in a lock down mode. The entire assembly is monitored for temperature, humidity, and of course tamper open / closure which is tracked for number of cycles, duration, and position.

One thing I added was low pressure gas shocks to reduce the possibility of fast open closure. My plans in the future is to install some linear actuators but it will need to wait for my reno's to be finalized maybe 2035?!?